It pains me to write these types of posts against Berluti as in reality they use to inspire me and have made some of the most beautiful shoes that I have ever seen. But again, maybe that extreme contrast between beauty and ugliness in their shoe production is what keeps me writing these posts, in the hopes that they will stop making these atrocities that can barely pass as shoes.
I just don’t understand what made them produce these over extreme asymmetrical shoes? They butchered the beauty of a wholecut oxford. And who is buying these things? I really just don’t get it?! And because today I posted an immaculate pair of their shoes on Instagram (to come on tomorrow’s blog post). And Berluti can make some of the most immaculate shoes the world has seen, but at the very same time some of the absolute ugliest.
But I guess LVMH knows what they are doing right? That’s why they are the largest menswear conglomerate in the world right? So maybe I am missing the trick? That’s the question. Is their business strategically sound or are they simply killing their heritage to just be a fashion brand?
Stay tuned tomorrow for some of the most amazing shoes ever made, also by Berluti!
They have a retro-futurism about them that’s kind of fun … but besides wearing to a Blade Runner screening … I dunno. The electric blue pair would probably kill at New Wave night at the local club. They’d get looks, in any case. I’d pay probably 1/3 of what they’re probably charging, for the occasional Wacky Factor.
Thanks for sharing Matt
It’s their new design director’s doing, kris van aasche. Whatever that dude done to the Berluti brand really destroy it’s playfully classic elegant heritage. Not only the shoes, but also the bags and other stuff they made under his wing.
I love Berluti, I have a pair of Alessandro which I think the most good looking wholecuts out there.
Though I understand many dismissed it for its Blake construction and its price. But then again, where do you get that kind of Patina (yes some brands like Corthay, G&G offer them, but I don’t live in Europe) and lifetime polishing service.
Alessandro its simply one of my favorite shoes, look-wise, among Antonio Meccariello and Gaziano & Girling. Not to mention its immediate comfort, yeah it’s Blake, but well I don’t go wearing them in rain or rough pavement.
I own old 2015 Andy, that is beautiful, very great patina. But under LVHM, Berluti moves to designer style, and I will never buy from them again. I think there are so many better choices, both from design and PRICE!
Retro futurism, GTF out of here. They look like crap with an sg
The one Justin pic’ed is truly a piece of shit.
Hi Justin,
Hope all is well? Just to say how I totally agree with you about the revolting asymmetric wholecuts above. I can only that men who want a fine shoe would not be caught dead wearing an item like that.
Best,
John Rushton
Hey Justin. I’m with you on Berluti. Bought a pair of Betluti’d in Milano in the Brera about 15 years ago. I still love those shoes. What has happened to Berluti? They are rather ugly now. Beginning to look like Stacy-Adams and Florsheim. But they at one time were beautiful well-made shoes as well. I hope this is just a temporary phase for Berluti. Take care Justin. Hope you are doing well.
Hi Justin, I totally agree, but to me Berluti made a strategical move…It is not anymore a men shoe brand but a global brand that produces every type of products: shoes, clothes, jeans…We as educated people who loves shoes and follow the market, we know berluti for a long time, but many men did not ever hear about it…I guess, in Asia, Berluti is seen as a new brand developed by LVMH…think as Berluti for men to what is Louis Vuitton for women, it is not only about bags, but shoes, perfumes, belts…and the same goes for Berluti, for sure it is losing its shoemaker soul but in terms of revenues, I guess it has nothing to compare…if you go to the website, you will see a fall/winter collection for 2019…if you to go to berluti/shoes/emblematics, you will see Alessandro, Andy…but also sneakers…I guess Berluti is ok for the bespoke but very expensive, anthony delos for shoes with 2 others craft masters and arnys for suits…and the CEO of Berluti is one of Bernard Arnault’s son, so I guess they are making a big bet on Berluti…and allowing a lot of money to the brand. So Berluti as a shoemaker is not anymore, just a brand going after every possible product that a man can buy
Thanks for responding Axel, it makes a lot of sense what you say. I guess the reality is when going for the goal of being global you disregard the small stuff like shoe nerds as you are going for different customers that can only of brand and less of quality