A Revolution Beneath Our Feet
Ten years ago, a Septieme Largeur dress shoe almost certainly meant a leather sole — the mark of refinement, tradition, and Parisian craftsmanship. Fast forward to today, and you’ll notice a quiet transformation underfoot. The brand has embraced what I’m calling the rubber sole revolution — a deliberate evolution that fuses timeless design with the realities of modern life. Septieme Largeur’s rubber sole options are now almost greater than their leather sole choices.
From Classic Elegance to Modern Utility
Founded in 2009 by Marcos Fernandez & Mathieu Preiss, Septieme Largeur built its name on beautifully balanced lasts, Goodyear-welted construction, and the artistry of patina — all for an incredible price. For years, leather soles were the norm — sleek, formal, and rooted in classic shoemaking tradition. But as the world’s dress codes shifted, so too did the brand’s approach to what a “dress shoe” could be.
The past decade has seen menswear relax dramatically. Office culture has loosened, commutes have lengthened, and the line between tailored and casual has blurred. In that context, a rigid leather sole feels less practical for everyday wear — especially when walking the slick cobblestones and rainy boulevards of Paris.
Septieme Largeur responded, not by abandoning its heritage, but by adapting it. Smart, too, as many people simply are not wearing leather soles anymore.
Septieme Largeur Rubber Soles for the Parisian Streets
Today, many of Septieme Largeur’s most popular models come fitted with Dainite, Vibram, or other rubber sole options. It’s not an accident. The brand has consciously leaned into designs that offer grip, comfort, and durability — without sacrificing the elegance of a welted construction.
The Anduze derby, for instance, features a supple sand-colored rubber sole praised for its flexibility and traction. The Ameto — a hybrid between a dress shoe and Vans sneaker — uses a 100% natural rubber cup sole to provide grip on wet surfaces while maintaining a refined silhouette. Even in collaborations, such as their partnership with Hast, Septieme Largeur highlighted a full natural Dainite sole on a classic loafer to marry sophistication with practicality.
Where once their collections were dominated by thin, polished leather soles, today you’ll find double Dainite, commando, and lug options across a wide range of their line-up. In short, Septieme Largeur now offers shoes meant for real life — for movement, weather, and comfort — all while retaining the sleek, patinated beauty the brand is known for.
It is a natural transformation for anyone who understands the French mentality. Nearly all ‘dress shoe’ wearers in France add rubber sole guards and toe taps to their leather shoes anyway. So, why not bypass that altogether?!
The Broader Shift: Dress Casual for a New Era
Septieme Largeur isn’t alone in this movement, but they’re arguably leading it from the heart of Paris. As dress codes continue to evolve, brands must find ways to bridge the gap between formality and function. Rubber soles are part of that solution — offering wearers confidence on slick pavements and long days, while still pairing perfectly with a blazer or smart denim.
It’s a practical response to modern life, but also a statement: the elegant man no longer needs to choose between style and comfort.
Why Rubber Soles Matter in Keep Dress Styles Relevant
What we’re seeing is more than just a design tweak — it’s a cultural reflection. Septieme Largeur’s rubber-soled dress shoes are proof that true craftsmanship adapts with time. The welt remains; the artistry remains. Only the foundation has changed — literally — to suit how we live today.
In a way, that’s the essence of great shoemaking: not static tradition, but evolution with integrity. I won’t lie and say that I prefer a dress shoe with a rubber sole. I am a leather sole purist. But I understand the movement and prefer it to getting rid of dress shoes altogether, and see the Cole Haan’s of the world taking over. That is a nightmare I prefer to avoid, and if adding Dainite and/or Commando soles to elegant oxfords prevents us from getting there, I will take it 100 times over!
Conclusion about Rubber Soles on Dress Styles
The rubber sole revolution isn’t about turning dress shoes into sneakers — it’s about ensuring they survive the times. And Septieme Largeur, true to their spirit of refinement and innovation, is walking that path one step ahead of the rest.
Read more about Septieme Largeur here
Learn more here: www.septiemelargeur.com
—Justin FitzPatrick, The Shoe Snob
Shop · Marketplace · J.FitzPatrick · Patreon
***Septieme Largeur is a supporter of The Shoe Snob Blog, and you can consider this a sponsored post***
Below is a collection of laced shoes that still maintain their dress status through a leather sole option
Was most of this “sponsored article” just copy/pasted off of their website? Bills have to be paid. I get it. I could let most of the dubious claims go but choked on my breakfast reading this…
“Nearly all ‘dress shoe’ wearers in France add rubber sole guards and toe taps to their leather shoes anyway. So, why not bypass that altogether?!”
Sure…not much difference between a flush tap and toppy on single leather soles versus whatever they attached to those poor suede tassel loafers, right?
lol – show me where you see anything copied/pasted maybe outside of listing when the company was founded as I don’t memorize dates of companies creations so naturally have to look that up. Sponsored post means I have to write blog posts, but no one tells me what to write. It comes from my ideas only. But nice try. And if you actually study shoes the way I do, you would understand this post as it is fast moving trend. I even go so far to say that I am against the premise but it is the natural way of the world. But you weren’t reading to actually read/understand, just to make dumb comments. And yes, I the ‘French’ Market was one of my biggest when I was based in London and it was impressive how many clients added topys/toe taps to their leather soled dress shoes. It is what made me start offering that combination as an add on product to the shoes I sold. I even wrote a blog post about it in 2016. — https://theshoesnobblog.com/the-french-sole-treatment/ — Not just pulling crap out of the sky. But you wouldn’t know as your comments prove grave ignorance or simply just being a hater on The Blog. Either way thanks for commenting and giving traffic to the site
It was a question…Given the tone and language used, I figured you might have used some of the information gotten from the company website or catalog. Which is why I asked. No hate.
Again, my original point of contention was the claim of ” just bypassing” flush taps and toppies for rubber soles. That is your recommendation? A single sole cap toe oxford with flush taps and toppies will have the same aesthetics as a cap toe oxford with a commando sole? As long as you’re getting taps, might as go all the way and just get vibram? It’s a strange jump in my mind. I can pull oxfords out of my closet with toppies..I can pull oxfords out of my closet with vibram. 2 entirely different looks (and purposes).
No doubt taps and toppies are popular…but that’s hardly a French thing. Most of the collectors I know are on the other side of the Atlantic and a good percentage use toppies and taps on their leather soled shoes versus just simply getting a pair with commando soles. Pretty sure my Weston’s came from the factory with taps. EG offers taps with resoles at the least Carmina offers taps as an option when ordering. Dean Girling is on record as stating taps and toppies are the best way to prolong the life span of your shoes. All these manufacturers offer commando/vibram/etc as well (and apparently for longer than 7eme Largeur)
Which begs the question…If you wrote an article on it 10 years ago, and I have vibram soled Carmina Oxfords and Alden chukkas with crepe that are both 18 years old ( before 7eme largeur was founded) can it really be considered a “fast moving trend” when Vibram/commando/crepe/etc options have been popular options for decades.
Abd…as such, how is 7eme Largeur “one step ahead of the rest” versus playing catch up? You’re claiming that 7eme Largeur has used commando soles longer than fellow French manufacturer JM Weston? And all the rest I mentioned? Who are they ahead of in a trend that has been around longer than they have?
You are funny. “Bills have to be paid” as a statement doesn’t follow a genuine question. But again, nice try. You were hating/prodding and its fine. I’ll bite.
It is clear you are half reading and really don’t know Septieme Largeur or the French dress shoe wearer. Sure many people add topys to their shoes, or toe taps or a combination. But none do so more as a rule of thumb then the French dress shoe wearer from France. Don’t believe me? Frankly, I dont care. As someone who has been to France many times and sold thousands of shoes there, well I think my experience stands for itself. But cheers again for trying to make a point.
As per the post, it is not about who was the first to add lug soles to their shoes. The Italians have been doing for 30 years. It is how Septieme Largeur has clearly seen the change not only in the market but in consumer trends and have completely shifted from a very classically leather soled dress shoe brand (with 90% or more having leather soles) to a more dress casual modern “chic” brand that nearly offers 50% rubber soles to their models. And if you dont know the brand then you won’t understand that. It is a huge change from what they once were and I believe they are doing so due to the way the world is changing. And lastly, as I know the owners they said that it has been very receptive in Europe, which means they must be doing something right.
And the point of the post, to spell it out, is that despite me being a leather sole purist, I believe this might become a trend to stay (i.e more brands adding more rubber soles to non-boot models) as dress codes grow more and more relaxed, less people are “going to the office” and sadly as AI replaces jobs that would otherwise be done by guys in the office who typically wore dress shoes.
I have had clients write me telling me they still stay up to date with my own brand but never wear dress shoes anymore hence not seeing an order from them. Continuing to make leather soled dress shoes would ensure their lack of a making a purchase. But adding lug soles to a casual dress model might entice them. And thats the point of the potential Rubber Sole Revolution.
Dear Justin
You are on the ball, as usual.
This issue for me is caused by the fact leather soles get soon damaged and some leather soles have grooves in which the threads are visible which presumably keep the sole and upper shoe part together and seem more vulnerable to certain destruction. Initially I tried Vibram, but when I read about what I believe was spelled Topy online I switched:
https://brillare.ca/blogs/blog/topy-soles
I see the Canadians – perhaps due to colder climate – are in the know. Maybe Topy markets there more?
I don’t know what is custom in France, because I unfortunately don’t visit there, but nobody in my region of secretive Switzerland and secretive Germany clued me in how to protect my leather soles anyway. Maybe the inhabitants who wear leather soles are wealthy enough to simply have them replaced and also own many pairs of shoes. I soon discovered, too, that local shoe repair service here has other brands than Topy.
I found it very interesting to ascertain recently English penny loafers with Dainite or Commodore or other heavy-duty rubber soles to which I am attracted for daily vulgar wear.
Thanks for sharing Peter, glad that you enjoyed it.
Hello Justin
Thanks for sharing. 7L is a great brand, I own a couple of pairs from them, I have their split toe derbies in my bucket list for Christmas.
Cheers
Thanks for sharing JM! The black grain ones are really nice
No matter how beautiful the uppers, rubber soles are not to my taste.
I feel ya, I am a leather sole purist as well. I never add rubber bottom and usually wear heavy soles on boots only (with some exceptions)
Dear Justin & Mr Morrison
You both belong to more economically privileged level of society. It’s none of my business to ask you how many pairs of shoes and boots you have, on the other hand I wonder how much leather re-soling costs in your vicinities?
lol – privileged, not a chance. Earned everything I own. Zero handouts but many good people helped in my journey. I have more shoes than I need for sure, but I don’t count as I am in the trade. I also haven’t had to re-sole anything. But resoling in the US runs around $200, minimum.
Dear Justin
Did you write:
“I also haven’t had to re-sole anything”?!
You sound like the Virgin Mary of Shoes and Boots?
In that case I must now watch my blue suede butterfly loafers I bought from you.
I am also quite astonished by the price of resoling in USA: $200! The US$ must really have suffered devaluation.
I wonder about the history of the price of re-soling.
Is the price equal for leather and Vibram?
What does “re-soling” exactly include:
heel, and the whole or only a part of the sole?
Presumably Vibram requires the total sole.
You have for many years made rubber solid dress shoes. Added commando soles to dress shoes – very casual.
I have many itshide – danite commando style – and don’t think the rubber sale is really visible compared to leather
Yes, I always have one or two options with a rubber sole for those that like them. But I have always been a leather sole purist 😉 — But this post was about brands making the shift to rubber where most of their shoes will have rubber and the few will have leather.