Commando Sole Shoes – A New Addition To The Welted Shoe Industry
There is nothing new about Commando soles shoes. They have been around for the longest time. What is new, is the fact that they are gaining momentum in the classic dress shoe industry, being implemented on shoe models that would otherwise normally have ‘dress soles.’ This trend appears to be here to stay, at least for a few years more. When I think about Commando sole shoe styles I think about the classic Alpine boot by Paraboot (shown below), the classic Timberland lug boot , or Santoni’s famous fur-lined boots. I never really pictured them on a loafer, or oxford, or even a monkstrap.
Today, you can find the commando sole on nearly any model if you look hard enough. The reality is that this is not novel. In fact, Italian designer brands – think Prada, Church’s (owned by Prada), Santoni, Gucci (classic bit loafer on lug sole) etc – have been doing this for years. I rarely focus on those types of shoe companies, however, and tend to put my focus more on the classic dress shoe brands that fuse other unique ideas into their styling without straying into the designer unknown. For that reason, commando sole shoes have yet to make a debut on the blog, until now.
Norman Vilalta Leading The Way
I never thought much about it when Norman Vilalta launched his collection and incorporated a lot of commando soles on models that traditionally never had them. I thought, ‘Norman is being Norman and uniquely himself.’ At the time, it was not really my style to put heavy lug soles on shoes supposedly meant for ‘Summer’ attire. Yet, I always appreciated the fact that Norman did what he liked and wanted. Norman is a brilliant shoe designer after all and now I realize he was way ahead of the game, soon to inspire an entire industry.
As time went on, commando sole shoes intrigued me more and more. And I think everyone else too. While Norman surely did not create the idea of putting commando soles on dress shoes, I think that his influence in the classic welted shoe industry and heavy use of commando soles on all models has created a ripple effect that is starting to take place. And, I won’t lie, I am guilty of getting on board with it!
More Brands Getting On Board With Lug Soles
Last Autumn/Winter season saw the first, real influx of commando soles on unconventional models in the welted shoe industry.. Crockett & Jones put it on a huge proportion of their Winter line, from boots to monkstraps and even loafers. This blew my mind being that they are one of the more traditional shoemakers still left. Then Septieme Largeur did so too, not only in the A/W but also in their Spring/Summer selection putting a huge commando sole on a pair of blue suede derbies (featured above). I believe this model was also very well sought after for them. It must have as since then Septieme Largeur has created many more commando sole shoe creations.
I can only imagine what Autumn/Winter 2022 will bring to our side of the industry. Not only for the brands mentioned here but also for the many others that have caught on to this idea and will inevitably be looking to stay afloat by offering some form of commando sole model. Time will certainly tell. And I think that time is just around the corner.
Infusing Commando Sole Shoes Into My Brand
Lastly, a bit about my own journey with commando soles. At heart, when it comes to dress shoe models, I am quite traditional. I like leather soles. If you have been following the J.FitzPatrick line from its inception, you will know that you can probably count on your two hands how many rubber sole models I have released. I nearly put everything on a leather sole (hiking boots not included). Yet, as I get older and evolve, I am continuously pushing myself to be open to trying new things. The commando sole was a big one for me. I don’t like clunky things. At all. It doesn’t suit my style.
But as I have evolved, so have commando soles. There are varying degrees of height to their rubber studs. When my factory found a fairly soft commando sole with a thin trim on the welt and relatively subtle in it’s tread/height, I thought to myself, ‘Let me see what all of the fuss is all about.’ I made a few samples but I did so on models that would suit a commando sole type. 1. My hiking boot, which a commando sole fits naturally on. And 2. My button boots are not normally a commando sole type of style. You can see the results below and judge for yourself though. I think they came out great and I actually get a lot of use out of them.
We are definitely going to see a flood of commando sole shoe styles coming to our industry. So get ready for it. And if you don’t like commando soles, well you better get on board as I think that this trend is here to stay!
—Justin FitzPatrick, The Shoe Snob
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Chris from Norway
Perfect, this trend is perfect for everyone living in areas with long slippery winters. For us it’s definitely good to have a wider set of options, and something ‘new’ to boast our sophistication through
Justin FitzPatrick
Yes indeed Chris! Especially in Norway, commando soles are nothing new for you guys up there.
Jeff Hill
I felt same way you did; then, living in Houston, I decided I needed more rubber soles. Leo from Bergdorf shipped me 2 Bontoni commandos and I am hooked. The Septieme blue sueded are the gold standard but always out of stock.
Justin FitzPatrick
Thank you for sharing Jeff!
Marcus
There is nothing new about commando soles. As far as i remember it was a trend 25-30 years ago. 🙂
Especially for young ladies at the start of the 90s.
Even if it´s not my style it´s nice to see variety.
Justin FitzPatrick
no, nothing new at all but new to this industry i.e. the prevalence of them being incorporated onto my ‘classic’ styles, not just boots etc
D&G
Hello Justin,
interesting post, it opened my eyes for some of the more appealling commando-sole models out there.
Just as you, i am usually not into clunky things and especially the whole “putting absurdely thick soles on otherwise normal looking shoes and making the wearers look like some grotesque, club-footed clown”-trend (Does anyone else remember the “Buffalo”-trend back in the 90’s? There have been some sightings of those things lately, obviously Zombies resurrected from the grave shambling through the streets…gruesome.)
But especially a dark-on-dark colour-combination underneath a rather sturdy base models (think Derbies and Derby-boots, Chuckkas etc.) seem to work just fine, as long as the proportions stay harmonious, otherwise the look easily risks drifting into rather asymetrical territory, making it an exhibit of modern art or a failed case study from some edgy kid’s industrial-design seminar.
Anyhow, i very much like your take on the button-boots, it looks suprisingly agreeably, as if it has been predestined to come together that way.
Keep on innovating!
Justin FitzPatrick
Thank you for commenting and your kind words. I do very much appreciate your support not only here in the blog, but also your kind words with regards to my brand.
Steve Wierhake
For winter – in places where there is snow and ice (even if only sometimes), I think shoes with soles like that are fine and some of them look pretty good. I think your brand along with Septieme Largeur have done the best in terms of balancing out the thickness of the soles relative to the rest of the shoe/boot. I think the other models from some of the brands using noticeably thicker soles look a bit faddish – not as classic.
Justin FitzPatrick
Thank you for sharing Steve! And I appreciate the kind words
William Gartin
Whenever it come time to resole my Snoqualmies, I’ll likely have Vibram commandos put on. It seems like the right look for that boot.
I can mostly take it or leave it on derby boots and shoes, but to my eye, it’s just as wrong on oxfords as an AE Park Avenue with a tennis shoe sole. (Ack!)
I tend to think of your button boots as dress boots, like balmoral boots. So, while I don’t really dislike it on these, it’s not for me.
It will be interesting to see how the market responds to these.
Justin FitzPatrick
Thank you for sharing William and yes, whenever you manage to destroy the hard-wearing City Rubber sole, a commando option will be good. And yes, I too, am curious to see how the market reacts to the button boot commando concoction