I don’t know how many of you remember, but before I ever went to have my collection made up in Spain, I went to Tony Gaziano to learn how to make a pattern. He spent the day showing me using one of my very own designs. At first I thought that I would try and take another skill on board, but after seeing how intricate it can be and understanding that it would just add a few more years onto realizing my goals, I decided that I would leave it at that and maybe come to it at another point in life. But, that day was very integral to my knowledge in understanding why a pattern (and how it fits on the last) is so important. I realize that it is not just a shape that makes the shoe, but how the design (pattern) fits on that shape. How it compliments the curvature of the last. This is something that I am now struggling with in my own prototypes. Getting the pattern to fit the last, properly, is no easy feat, especially on your first round of making them. They usually need adjustments.
Needless to say, this is the final result of my design. You may say, ‘oh this is nothing unique,’ but if you look carefully, I have extended the adelaide to follow the top line of the shoe, giving it sort of a ‘wing-like’ characteristic. As well as that, I have minimized the heel counter. I did that because I wanted to emphasize the flannel that I used, so that it would be the main focus of the shoe. And even though some might find these characteristics to be unpractical, I find them to be the refreshing difference to everything else that already exists.
As far as the construction of the shoe goes, allow me to explain. So after Tony and I (really just Tony) completed the pattern, we had one of the closers that he uses sew all of the pieces together. This proved to be a difficult request due to the nature of the fabric. Yet, after a struggle, he still managed to do so and ended doing a very good job on such a difficult piece. The intention was then for me to make the shoes myself, but after a couple of complications, including lack of time and the fragility of the upper, we decided to just have it made in the G&G factory on the DG70 last. And as a surprise, they ended up constructing it with the Deco standard of construction and finish, to give it more of that ‘handmade’ feel. So that being, the concoction that you see presented here is designed by myself conceptually (and on paper), with the pattern done by Mr. Tony Gaziano, and then made up by the wonderful workers at Gaziano & Girling. The only downfall to all of this, is that this shoe will unfortunately be a one-off, as the flannel used is far to delicate and difficult to put into mass production. But, the design will be something that I incorporate into my first collection.
(Just to reiterate for clarification, this shoe will not be available by either side, and in the future, the design will be made available by me, not G&G)
You have a good eye for good designs from various brands, but it doesn’t show in your own designs, which are frankly horrible. Sorry. Great blog though.
Marc Hare is a – LOL, I love how you and all of the other haters throw in a compliment when you are trying to bash me. Just bash me man, don’t try and be nice about it! At least you won’t have to worry about wanting to buy my shoes when they come out….but I wouldn’t be surprised if you did so anyway!
-Justin
Justin,
I dissent from Marc Hare. Following The Shoe Snob post by post. These shoes look great. They have an elegant shape, texture, and design. Really like the combination of austerity brogue, adelaide, and low contrast flannel material. Moreover, your subtle innovations with the throat wings and counter show an appetite for evolutionary change, but not the parvenu advocating originality for the sake only of spectacle.
Eager to see this prototype in production. I’ll be in the queue to order.
I could only imagine how difficult this shoes must have been to close, especially with only single stitching. One of the subtle details that I like about G&G shoes is that the width of the lace holes taper from bottom to top. Also, did you intentionally use a grandma knot?
I agree with Hare. You would do very well opening exclusive mens shoe stores. You have a wonderful knowledge of brands and would excel as a buyer.
In agreement with Mark also. Your talent appears to be picking elegant shoes, not designing them. Open a high end shoe store.
Fantastic soles! The Deco-finish is great and I especiallt like the small heel counter and the continuation of the U-throat on the sides
These shoes & your red & black ones look very Miss Marple- an older womens shoe?
admirable that you are perusing your dream! that’s fantastic.
In your blog you keep talking about color and shape, why lead with a black shoe that looks like so many others…
for example
http://www.shoebuy.co.nz/franco-sarto-rugby/393705
im a bit disappointed…
Read the comments here and felt obliged to comment. Two things spring to mind
a) the web is habituated by people who are very happy to knock other people’s efforts but perfectly content not to attempt anything themselves; these people frequently also go so far as to enjoy the information on a website run by somebody taking the time and energy to put up said information, then express dissatisfaction with the content of the website, as though they have an intrinsic right to have it tailored to their needs
b) Justin, some of your shoe ideas are not to my taste (whereas some are), but the idea that they could be described as bad taste is ridiculous. They are made on good lasts, to a high standard, with a nice mix of traditional and novel. Some people live in a two-category world where not to their taste = bad taste. You can’t please all of the people all of the time so just ignore people with these tendencies.
Give me one!
No i wear mostly Berluti or Cleverley. Just because i have the opinion that your shoes look like an older womans, it doesnt mean that i like Church shoes??? Bizarre response indeed???
Engerland – While my response and using Church’s was a bit of a generalization, it is very strange to hear of your tastes and how you don’t like mine. Not that it matters to me whether you like them or not, but Berluti all of shoes, makes things that would look (shape-wise) like mine. I was just giving you a taste of your own medicine. Not liking them is one thing but saying that my shoes looked grandma-ish…to me that was quite strange…no hard feelings though as I have always advocated the common phrase, ‘to each his own.’ Plus, a little banter never hurts anyone…
Betty Swollocks – Believe me, I definitely know that people will not agree nor like my shoes and possibly me or what I say and it does not bother me one bit. In fact, it makes me want to try harder. Not being a diva at all, it just seems quite strange that people who say that they are an advocate of the blog and all that I have put into it, would then say well you should just stick to that because “I” don’t like your shoes. Maybe if you put yourself in my shoes, you would understand…. Trust me, there are no hurt feelings on my end. And maybe I was being a bit harsh on you, when your comments (after re-reading them) do seem more genuine, but the Hare guys were not and his fueled the flames to my initial responses.
-Justin
This site is absolutely superb. I am going to read every post you have done. The breadth of houses/brands covered is phenomenal. Thank you for putting it out there. 11 out of 10. Brilliant.
Marc Hare shoes are horrible not yours. His have no elegance or style
New reader, but nice work! I wonder what suede would have looked like, rather than smooth leather.
Granny knot – http://www.fieggen.com/shoelace/slipping.htm
Have you cocidered perhaps that you dont receive well criticism? That your ego is in the way of listening to other people opinion?
Just a thought since you seem to need to respond to all the comments with explanation / excuses and other reasons why this and that are the way they are….
SJK – Thank you for your kind words, I appreciate them.
Rob – The problem is that Marc Hare did not write that comment, it was someone who does not like Marc Hare who did.
Jordan – Thanks for commenting. It will most likely be suede that I use when I put them into production, so you will shortly see.
James – Aww okay, then yes, this I intentionally did, just to quickly lace them.
Anon – I answer every comment because this is what I do, not because I feel the need to justify anything. Frankly, I don’t mind criticism as I know that it will be inevitable, but there is a difference between being critical and trying to take someone down. The second, I don’t respond well to. But just to throw you off I will thank you for your comment and criticism.
-Justin
I absolutely love these!!!
OwenB – Thanks Owen!
-Justin