We often want to know who the ‘best’ is. But what does the ‘best’ mean? If we take a step back from our current reality and think about when shoemakers used to be called ‘cobblers’, we might come to understand that in those times what most likely defined the best was the cobbler/shoemaker who could offer more services than the next guy. I presume that as recently as the turn of the 20th century, the shoemaker who could make and/or fix anything was simply considered the best in their area. Yet, times have certainly changed.
Today we tend to focus on the superfluous details that in reality do not add lifespan to your shoes. It is more of a competition of details about ranking the best shoemakers. And that is okay as details do matter. But it should not be overlooked that a shoemaker that can make anything is a feat in itself. That feat is offered by a few today. Paolo Scafora is the only shoemaker I know who offers every style of shoemaking there is. And he does this all under one roof. I do not believe he outsources anything, not even his sneaker collection.
If you look at Paolo Scafora’s website you will find that most shoes are Goodyear construction but in his factory, he can make anything from Blake construction to fully handmade bespoke with everything in-between. And that is something, as he does them all well, too. Most shoemakers will specialize and focus on one type of shoemaking. Not Scafara. He offers them all and that is why to this day he still makes for some of the biggest brands in Italy and can offer them anything they want. On top of that, he still comes to New York City three times a year to service his bespoke clientele.
He also specializes in Norwegian welted construction which he can add to any shoe. Few makers offer that level of diversity with the handstitched construction. Even more impressive is using that same type of braided stitching concept to sew pieces of the upper together, as you can see in that suede oxford below. When you then compound the making with the realization that he can get any leather you want and make any color in crust, you come to realize that there is nothing he cannot do.
Paolo Scafora is a one-stop shop factory and that is rare today. Even more rare is how humble and out of the limelight Paolo is. He is a true artisan who only cares about making good products and continuing the legacy his grandfather created. It is admirable and for me deserves recognition. And if you have yet to try out his shoes, I highly suggest doing so. They are among the most comfortable I have ever worn.
Learn more: https://www.paoloscaforanapoli.com/us/
—Justin FitzPatrick, The Shoe Snob
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Jan Petter Myhre
Brilliant Justin, more of this please!
Justin FitzPatrick
Thanks JP! Will do 😉
Aldon Enbysk
Good evening Justice. Aldon Enbysk here from Boise ,Idaho. The shoes at the start of your article are just beautiful! I haven’t become a fan of burnishing shoes but again these shoes are beautiful. Can these shoes be purchased through you?
Also, is the shoes maker Paulo Scafora the company you mentioned could help me with the making of the Sutor Mantellassi shoes.
I look forward to hearing back from you.
Kind Regards, Aldon Enbysk
Justin FitzPatrick
Hello Aldon, you will need to reach out the Paolo Scafora by heading to the link at the bottom of the page and finding his contact page and reaching out
Steve Gorka
The concept of being able to make anything reminds me of the shoe store my mom used to take me to as a youngster, JT Murdoch in Livingston, NJ. We went for the Buster Browns, but the other side of the business was and still is custom orthotics. They make or remake shoes for whatever kind of fucked up feet God gave you. One leg 3 inches shorter than the other? Murdoch got you! Ate or drank your way toeless from the diabeetus? No problem! Rickets? Cannonball? Step right up (if possible)!
No patinas or fddleback waists, but those are just details after all.
Justin FitzPatrick
Thank you for sharing Steve, too bad stores like that don’t really exist anymore. It is sad.