The Sharpest Derby I Have Seen

The Sharpest Derby I Have Seen

If you have read my blog for more than a year you probably know that I am not a huge fan of derby shoes. Something about them just doesn’t really appeal to me in the same way that oxfords and other dress styles do. But I say this as a dress shoe. I like them as more “casual” styles. But always found it weird when guys wore casual derbies with suits. It never sat right with me. A contradiction of sorts.

For me, they always sat in this ‘no man’s land’ in terms of dress shoe style. I like a casual derby with a double sole, stormwelt, plain toe, in suede and worn with jeans or chinos. That is a great shoe. Even without the stormwelt. Or even a well cut longwing brogue derby, again worn with more casual trousers. Completely fine. But that same idea of shoe worn as a dress shoe? No thank you.

Over the years, you have had shoemakers attempt to ‘dress up’ the derby model and some have done a tremendous job at that. The cult classic, by Edward Green, known as the Dover has been a tremendous success to shoe geeks across the world. But even that shoe I do not find as fitting into the category of ‘dressy.’ That sits in the style of the above paragraph.

The Corthay’s, the Norman Vilalta’s, and now the Acme Shoemaker’s have done a good job at dressing it up. Making so.ething sharp and elegant. Something more accetable to be worn with a suit and less accetable to be worn with jeans/chinos. But this one here, for me, takes the cake. Not only for the elegance of it but really for the blending of an oxford design onto a derby shoe. The front part is without mistake a derby only type of style with an apron. But the back half of the shoe is often a design feature of an oxford and the way they pulled that apron line to seamlessly “connect” to the line on the quarter, was nothing shy of brilliant pattern making. Adding a counter, for me, also dresses it up a bit.

Acme Shoemaker

The Sharpest Derby I Have Seen

4 thoughts on “The Sharpest Derby I Have Seen”

    1. Justin FitzPatrick

      Thanks for sharing Jon. Its funny as I have seen that but it didnt strike me here the same way that the one that Acme did and I am a fan of Stephane as a shoemaker and a person. So yes, thanks to Stephane for this brilliant design and to Acme for their execution of it

  1. I have one pair of Acme shoes. A beautiful dark brown Patina. Full Brogue and are spectacular! But you have to really want them.
    They only sell on Instagram and there is a somewhat long wait for delivery. But I feel like they were well worth the wait and they
    fit perfectly. Even make the Bespoke suction release noise when removing them.

Leave a Comment

Your email address will not be published. Required fields are marked *

Welcome to The Shoe Snob Blog! 

This blog was created to not only show the journey of one man who wanted to make the shoe industry the best it could be but also the share all of the knowledge gained along the way. 

Ultimately this blog is about seeing men wearing better shoes through education and sharing what is out there that deserves recognition. 

Click the link to read more about me and my journey to make this all happen!