I am starting to see the Spiral Cut Oxford, more and more these days, especially in SE Asian makers. As far as I know it was introduced by John Lobb as part of their yearly ‘Saint Crepin’ model, a shoe that they dedicate to the honorary patron saint of shoemaking, Saint Crispin. I am sure that it existed before John Lobb, but as is the case with many features of the shoe industry, Lobb popularized it. Only thing is that it took about 10 years for it to start spreading. But am sure that within a year or two, many makers will have their own version.
That bring us to the post/shoe at hand, by CNES Shoemaker, the Vietnamese/Singaporean brand that have recently introduced their own version of this very elegant longwing adelaide wingtip into their latest collection. I have always loved a wingtip so naturally I would be attracted to this model. Not only because of that, but even more so, because I love the longwing line. It is one of my favorite characteristics in an oxford. Not to be confused with a longwing brogue, which is far my less ‘my thing.’ But in an oxford, I find it to be incredible elegant. And this model is just that. But instead of making it overly formal, they toned it down with this unique hatchgrain like leather from French powerhouse Annonay.
Most would have slapped on some dark brown sole edging to this model, again, making it more in tune with something ‘dressy’ but again CNES took a different route and use a more mid-brown color, once again de-formalizing the model. That way, should have be so inclined, they could easily style these beauties with a pair of jeans or chinos and go for that smart casual look. That is more up my alley these days as I rarely break out a suit and wear oxfords with it. I am usually suited and booted in Winter and using loafers in Summer. That NYC extremity rarely finds my feet in my oxfords, something I sometimes regret as I do love a nice pair of oxfords. When living in London, I practically lived in them. Interesting how climate/weather/city style can change that in a blink of an eye. But I digress.
CNES offers these for a great price of $266 USD (360 SGD) and use a Bologna Goodyear Welted Construction. For those that are not familiar with that, it is the Italian version of the goodywear weld which leaves it flexible, unlike traditional welted oxfords that can often be quite stiff for some not used to it
If you like it and the price, find your pair here: www.cnes.co
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