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Bespoke Making On A Whole Other Level

Most of the time, people buy bespoke shoes because they have feet that are hard to fit and therefore need a last to be made up to accommodate such feet. But every now and then, you get a gentleman who goes for bespoke simply for the fact that he wants something that no one else is ever going to have. This shoe presented here, represents just that, and even more. I found this on Saion’s site and because it is in Japanese I unfortunately cannot understand one single thing, but looking at the pictures, I am almost positive that the stitching of the upper was done by hand, which is simply frickin’ amazing!! Imagine how long that would take? AGES!

I look at this and even though I would probably not wear it simply for the fact of the decoration on the strap, I can’t help but like and appreciate it. I only wish that there was a side view to look at, in order to get more of an appreciation for the entire shoe, as the top view only gives you so much. But I must say, that this is shoemaking purely at it’s finest. The upper is unique, the stitching is hand-done (and contrasted), the design is out of the ordinary (the counter’s are quite different) and the color combination is mind-blowing!! Overall, I give this a 10, not for the fact that it’s the coolest shoe ever, but simply for the fact that it breaks all of the norms and enters the realm of art for the sake of making something that is beautiful and not necessarily practical….

Bespoke Making On A Whole Other Level

Bespoke Making On A Whole Other Level

Bespoke Making On A Whole Other Level

Bespoke Making On A Whole Other Level

Bespoke Making On A Whole Other Level

12 thoughts on “Bespoke Making On A Whole Other Level”

  1. That is impressive. I just today started to stitch my first upper by hand. After doing half a shoe i appreciate this even more. have to say tho, I thought it would take even more time than it does.
    Compared to closng by machine I guess our machinist can do full pair in the same time as i stitch a cap to a vamp: )

  2. yes that double stitch is very neat. im quite curios about the size of the stitches and gauge of thread and awl. No mather how he did it he has done a very good job of it….
    Right now im only making a single shoe to see how it handles being lasted an so on and since it’s my first there is some mistakes.
    Next time i will do pair to wear and i might try to so i double row like that for a balmoral or something…

  3. For some reason I’m reminded on the intricate Yakuza tattoos when I look at the stitching!

    I would like to hear from the people behind this shoe, both from the maker and the payer.

  4. I agree with ike.
    I like the skill behind the stitches that hold the upper together….but decorational stitching on the strap is not my cup of tea, same goues for the heel. Not trying to hard is a skill that also takes time to learn:)

  5. Angussss Cundeeeeee

    Vile- and don’t start the usual defensive mode or explain why this is such a great artisan work- it sucks.

  6. I would be happy to be your Japanese translator!

    So basically, I’ll give you the gist of it:

    “…from my work from earlier today, something pretty special:”

    “It’s basically a double monk strap with hand-stitched emblems on the uppers.”

    “Finished to a 16th without cheating.”

    (I’m not sure what he means here, but judging from the photo he may be referring to the fact that the stitching at the edge of the cap leather (where the light green cap leather meets the darker green vamp) is 1/16 of an inch from the edge. Bear in mind the Japanese use the metric system, but often use inches and feet as well, or sometimes for old-world crafts like sword-making, kimono-making, etc they will use the ancient Japanese “SHAKU” measurement system. So i’m not sure what exactly the 16th refers to here. I just present the facts. You be the judge.

    “The crazy heel detail!”

    “BTW the materials I used:

    Leather for the uppers came from Annonay, they were all originally tan-colored and the other colors I stained.”

    “Occasionally we get unusual orders like this.
    And I’m not always excited about them until I finish.
    I think it’s the emotions you get during the process, the trial and error and such. But for me, when I finish making a pair of shoes the feeling at the end is made even better by the build up of excitement during the process.”

    Happy to do it again if you see another Japanese site that you need to “get”.


    – Myles

  7. I am insulted, by the way, that the person above me dared to use the name of Angus Cundey to write that comment. I would be shocked if I ever heard Mr. Cundey use such anill-informed and poorly-worded statement. Henry Poole is an institution sir and the Cundey family hold the reins of Savile Row’s provenance in their blood.

  8. Daniel – I am confident that you will soon be able to do this same work and possibly better. Keep up it the good work. See you soon!

    Benjy – While nothing surprises me, I think it’s in a yakuza’s best interest to be discreet. Green shoes just aren’t that! I would like to know more about the owner of these too though…

    Ike – If you are referring to the stitching, then I agree..

    Daniel – It was more like they intentionally just tried to make something that was ‘out there’

    Dom Tubbs – To each his own…as always

    Angus – you make me laugh….and don’t worry, your comment is not worth my ‘defensive mode’

    Myles – Thanks for all of your help Myles. Finished 16th means that when he stitched the sole to the welt he made 16 holes in one inch, which is very difficult to do without breaking the welt.

    Terry Dactyl – I think the person playing the games should get a life….


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