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| Corthay |
Having been heavily involved for some time now within the bespoke world of both shoes and suits, I have seen my fair share of the end results to customer orders. Sometimes I see the most plain-jane type of things: a black cap-toe oxford, a brown 3 eyelet plain-toe derby or just a notch lapel 2-button, plain gray cloth suit. Other times, I have seen blue suede chukka boots with pink stars stitched into the leather or green cordovan leather soled derbies. It makes you see who goes bespoke for fun and to thus get something no one else will have and who goes bespoke for the pleasure of being able to afford it yet still wanting to be� on the practical side of things. But then I get the feeling that there may be times where you have someone who goes for their first time and might want to get that impractical thing, but might be timid to ask for it. I am sure that many tailors and/or bespoke shoemakers will impose their ideas and/or opinions onto their customers (those who are not firm in their desires) and that it can be quite daunting when they do (as they are the “expert”) but allow me to tell you, that you are the customer and ultimately have the choice to what you get. If you want a pink leather python skin shoe with a cuban heel and studs on it, then by all means, that’s what they need to make you if they want to make the money.
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| Anthony Delos |
So, if you happen to be one of those people who might be a bit shy and have bought something that you didn’t really want or are thinking to go bespoke but don’t really know what to look and/or ask for, allow me to shed some light on what it means to have bespoke and all of the sweet little details that can be had because of it! So let’s go through the list of possibilities:
Design:
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| Gaziano & Girling |
When you go bespoke, the possibilities of design are pretty much endless. They will be limited by the depth of your imagination and the skill (or stubbornness) of the pattern maker. Most things can be achieved, but obviously there are limits to what will turn up good and what will look like crap. This will be better understood by the maker. But don’t think that you need something that has been done before. If you can draw something up that you think that you want, then by all means, use that to give to the pattern maker who should then be able to make a pattern out of it. Or if you want something that’s base exists but with a change of detail, say for example a full brogue but with diamond punches instead of circular ones, then this should be accessible. And remember, thread comes in all colors, so the stitching of your upper can be whatever you want it to be.
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| Riccardo Bestetti |
Leather or Fabrics (colors/types):
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| Dimitri Gomez |
A good shoemaker should not be limited to a simple swatch. They should be able to get what you want, whether it be that pink python, some kind of tweed fabric or whatever it may be. Now, this might not be readily available and most likely will cost extra if not on premises (as they will have to get a whole skin, which you will have to pay for), but that doesn’t mean that you can’t get it. And if they tell you otherwise, well, they are just aren’t willing to work that hard for the sale, which should tell you something. Every color in the world has been put onto a leather, but just in case they really can’t find what you are asking for (like some crazy shade of teal), just ask for a crust leather (unfinished) and then send the end product to a patina maker, like Paulus Bolten.
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| Saion |
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| Jan Kielman |
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| Carreducker |
Sole/Finishing:
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| Anthony Delos (2 directly below as well) |
While the sole usually gets ruined with a day or two of use, it is nice to have little details added to it in order to set your shoe apart. Some do this with fiddleback waists, others do it with color and some even like to add a million nails in it to create some sole design. I would personally recommend not going to heavy on the nailing of a sole, as it will cause you to slip. I nailed my initials into the heels of one of my bespoke shoes, and I always have to tread lightly as not to wind up on my ass. There are also hump waists (not sure that this is what it’s called, but it’s what I call it), whereby instead of adding that beautiful curved V (fiddleback – above), you add a rounded hump (as shown below on the red sole).
2 Above both by Saion (green & blue sole ones)
As you can see by all of the examples presented, literally anything can be done, should you wish it. Don’t get me wrong, if all you want is a black cap toe, then so be it. But I hate the thought that someone ventures into bespoke, pays a lot of money, but then doesn’t get what he/she truly desires for fear of asking and/or it not being able to be done. But like I said, most things can be done and you will never get if you don’t ask. So please, use this as your reference to your next crazy bespoke purchase!
Oh, and by the way, a gentleman by the name of Timothy has started his own quest into the world of shoemaking, trying to learn and absorb as much he can, while at the same time documenting it. If you too have the desire to do such things, then by all means, check out his documentary blog:
Unless you’re exceptionally wealthy and order bespoke shoes on a regular basis, I have to agree that it seems rather a waste to order something that looks “ordinary”.
Of course, the counter argument would be that if you are going to have one amazing pair of shoes, they should be ones that you’re going to wear a lot, so perhaps a black cap-toe oxford is just the thing. Perhaps the true extravagance is buying your rare and hard-earned bespoke pair in a style that you can only wear on high days and holidays.
There’s a balance though, I think: I have some splendid ready to wear shoes, but bespoke is beyond by normal budget. I’m in the process of ordering my first bespoke pair. What I’m aiming for is something I can wear regularly, rather than daily. Worthy of frequent rotation, acceptable in most social circumstances, but distinctive enough to be obviously different from my regular RTW collection.
I think the trick is to take that practical idea – a tan wing-tip brogue, a formal black whole-cut, a smart burgundy double monk, and just add a little twist to it. Maybe, like you said Justin, just changing the colour of the stitching is something easy. Designing your own medallion with a significant number of punch holes or shape. Or in my case, adding one unusual material for a small part of the shoe – taking a second glance to notice, but very distinctive once you do.
There is no question that bespoke shoes are a luxury, and for me, some of the designs above are a luxury wasted! But one day, when I order some blue crocodile spectators or an elephant and grain calf hunting boot to be worn once a year, I will know I’ve made it!
By the way, regarding the “hump”, I think I’ve seen that called a “London waist”.
One more thing while I’m at it: those crazy orange crocodile ankle boots from Saion are outstanding. The kind of shoes for which the only justification is “just for the sake of awesome!”
I’d like to think that the bespoke client in this case was Spiderman, for special days when he’s off duty and feeling “pimp”. I would totally wear these just for the craziness of it, and that goes for several of the examples you’ve shown.
Nice post. Whenever a customer chooses us, I think one of the deciding factors is that we design every shoe specifically for each customer. It’s one of the things we like doing most. Obviously the customer has to get what they want, but it is also the bespoke shoemaker’s role to encourage and explore possibilities. Lay it all on the table and let them choose – it should be fun!
Best, James
Great attitude Mr Shoe! A contrast to some more precious makers. If only I could afford you….one day!
Alex B – London Waist huh? That makes sense as you regularly see it on English shoes….and the crocodile boots are by Delos actually, made for Harley Davidson, which may make you now understand why they are a bit flash, and in orange….not sure I would wear them myself, but I do appreciate them as a beautiful piece of art…
James – Glad that you like the post!
-Justin