When I first got into shoe care, the only brush I knew was the classic horsehair. Even when I was shining shoes professionally, that was the brush I relied on. These days, there are far more options, and looking at a lineup of different brushes can leave you wondering what you actually need.
The answer depends on what you are doing. Cleaning mud from a boot, brushing out cream polish, and touching up a polished shoe are different jobs. You do not need to buy every brush going, but it helps to understand what each one is for.
Below, I explain the main types, using brushes from my own Shoe Snob range where I offer them. For the specialist boar and yak brushes, I have kept the Paul Brunngard examples, which you can buy through Arterton.
Table of Contents
1. The Boar Hair Cleaning Brush
A boar-bristle brush is the firm, heavy-duty option in this lineup. It is useful for dried dirt and tougher cleaning jobs, particularly on boots. That stiffness is the point, but it also means you need to think about the leather you are brushing. A delicate polished upper does not need the same treatment as a muddy boot.
I do not currently offer a boar brush in my own range. The Paul Brunngard Wild Boar Hair Shoe Brush, available at Arterton, is the example shown here. I own this brush, and admittedly I use it a lot, not only for shoes but for cleaning my work display which is a slab of leather over a desktop. It is a great brush for any type of leather cleaning.
2. The Everyday Horsehair Brush
If you are buying one brush to start with, make it horsehair. It is the best all-rounder for everyday dusting and brushing out cream polish. It also helps remove excess product after application, which is a step people often rush.
The Shoe Snob’s 6-inch Horsehair Shine Brush is made in Germany with 100% horsehair and comes in black and natural bristles. It is my workhorse brush and also good for buffing up boot leather, which I find myself more often in these days since my move back to the Pacific Northwest.
I recommend dedicated brushes for three color choices:
- A black brush for buffing black shoes
- A natural brush for all tan/light leathers
- A natural brush for the rest: Mid-Brown, Burgundy, Dark Brown, etc.
Using the same brush on black shoes and then a light tan pair is asking for trouble. You do not need a separate brush for every tiny shade difference, but keeping dark and light polish apart is sensible. I linked to my brushes above, but I also offer a bundle deal on them, which is buy 4 for the price of 3, which helps you achieve a smart collection to ensure you do not accidentally transfer color to a light shoe.
3. The Goat Hair Finishing Brush
Goat hair is softer than horsehair and is useful when the main polishing work is already done. It is a good option for gentle finishing and touching up the appearance of polished leather without going back over it with a firmer brush. I recommend this for the person who does not desire to attempt hand-polishing mirror shines and wants to finish his shine with a good buffing.
The Goat Hair Brush will help you achieve a higher gleam on your leather than the Horsehair Brush above. Its finer, softer bristles help distribute the polish more evenly while gently buffing the leather to a beautiful, lustrous shine.
The Shoe Snob’s Goat Hair Finishing Brush is made in Germany and has natural-coloured bristles. Use it after your initial horsehair brushing rather than expecting it to do the heavy work of cleaning a dirty shoe. I also recommend the same rule as above for color use. Three brushes are the standard, in fact.
Keep this brush clean, too. A soft finishing brush covered in grit rather defeats the purpose. It is not meant for cleaning.
4. The Specialist Yak Hair Brush
Yak hair is another finishing option, with fine, densely packed bristles. The Paul Brunngard version combines yak hair in the centre with goat hair around the outside for support.
I do not sell a yak brush, so for this one I would point you to the Paul Brunngard Yak Hair Shoe Brush at Arterton. While coming with a dear price, it is a solid brush that will certainly bring up a nice shine from your cream polish application. Again, for those who do not care to achieve mirror shines, you will want to focus on the ‘finishing brushes’ to help maintain that glossy look.
It is a specialist addition for someone who enjoys the finer stages of polishing. You can still put together a perfectly useful shoe-care kit without owning both a goat and a yak brush.
5. The Applicator Brush
An applicator, or dauber, puts the product onto the shoe. Its small head makes it useful around the welt and other areas where a large shine brush would be awkward. I prefer round ones to the ones shaped like toothbrushes. The round ones make more sense for a circular application, which is how I use them.
The Shoe Snob’s Horsehair Applicator Brush uses 100% horsehair for applying cream polish and conditioner. Start with a small amount. Having a brush to apply it does not mean you need to load the thing with product.
Use separate applicators for black and lighter polish colours so you are not transferring pigment from one shoe to the next. After application, switch to your larger horsehair brush for buffing. If you do not believe in having multiple shine brushes for multiple colors, that is fine, but at least you must for the applicator brush. It is imperative to not ruining your finish.
6. A Suede Brass Bristle Brush
Suede deserves its own mention because you are maintaining the nap rather than building a polished finish. A dedicated suede brush is a useful addition if you wear suede regularly. Even more useful if you intend to keep it looking lush and dust-free.
The Saphir Brass Suede Brush, which I stock in The Shoe Snob shop, combines a central row of fine brass bristles with surrounding natural bristles. It is designed to help lift dirt and revive the nap.
Use light pressure and check the effect on a small, discreet area first. Scrubbing harder is not automatically better, especially on finer suede. This is a suede-care tool, not a replacement for your smooth-leather polishing brushes.
Watch my video tutorial on how to maintain your suede using a bristle brush and some steam.
7. What You Actually Need
For a straightforward smooth-leather routine, start with an applicator and a horsehair shine brush. Keep your polish colours separated, then add a goat finishing brush if you want that softer final touch. If you wear suede, give it a dedicated brush. Boar and yak brushes can come later if they suit the way you care for your shoes and/or depending on the shoes you are wearing. For more rugged footwear and/or more rural living, the Boar brush is crucial for cleaning and upkeep.
You can find the brushes I stock in the Shoe Snob brush collection.
For the Paul Brunngard boar and yak brushes featured above, visit Arterton.
—Justin FitzPatrick, The Shoe Snob
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Thank you very much for the information. That goat brush is calling my name….
🙂 always a pleasure!