In the split toe world, there are 3 types of constructions. There is the basic machine stitch split toe where you just see a small seam down the town (stitch on the inside), then there is the inverted hand stitch split toe (think Edward Green Dover), which is quite very popular among Italian brands and then you have the Norwegian split toe which is generally a hand stitched apron and split. Now within that realm are two types, the common split where the split follows the shape of the last and is only about an inch long and then what we are highlighting today which is the elongated split toe with short apron. Now, I am not the biggest fan of split toes all together which is why I never hopped on the EG ‘Dover’ bandwagon as is popular among iGent’s today, but I have always appreciated the elongated split toe that I first saw done by Santoni about 12 years ago.
Something about the elongated version makes me feel that it has a huge amount of character. It’s bold, it’s different and it really screams out ‘hey, look at this damn split toe stitch!’ It’s brazen and that is why I like it. It’s not for the faint of heart. You know it’s there and so does everyone else. There is no hiding nor mistaking it and on top of that, it takes a lot of skill to make. And that last sentence means that not many can do it, nor want to which means that unfortunately we won’t see much of it which is a shame. But let’s see if I can convince my factory to do it. I always love a challenge!
I’ve always loved the split toe with the elongated split, if done right, in the range of the Alden and Santori. Nordstrom did a nice design many years ago which I still have, although the quality isn’t that good, but I like the look. I’m looking for a better quality split and came across your article. you’re right on, as far as I’m concerned.