There is a lot of debate about who the best Chinese shoemaker is, so I thought that I would finally put my opinion down on internet paper. If we are speaking about pure skill and which shoemaker can create the highest level of detail, finishing, and last/pattern making, then for me Acme Shoemaker takes the crown. So, let’s break this down.
Last & Pattern Making
In my opinion, this is the most important part of shoemaking. Honestly, I don’t care about ‘stitches to the inch’ on the sole, how clean the finishing is, and all of that superfluous detailing that you cannot even notice after wear. Not for wearable shoes at least.
What you do notice in any shoe, as well as for the length of its life, is how beautiful the last is and how well the pattern was placed on that last. Those two points differentiate the average shoemakers and the great ones, and beautiful shoes from non-beautiful shoes. The best-made shoe on an ugly last or a bad pattern is nothing more than an ugly shoe. FACT.
Finishing Skills
Acme has reached the point where flawlessness is nearly always achieved. It was not always the case either. My first pair by them had small discrepancies. My latest ones have none. Again, for me, this is a moot point but needs saying. Their level of finishing rivals the best in the business.
Attention to Detail
They don’t miss on this. You will often see small details in their shoes, which are subtle, yet differentiate them. Some shoemakers say they copy a lot of other shoemakers. Some customers say this too. At this point in shoe history, sadly, unless you reinvent the wheel, I think it is hard not to. But what they can do, is copy to the point where sometimes it is better than the original. Just saying.
Acme Shoemaker vs Oct. Tenth
This is really what many of you want to hear so I am giving it to you. For me, Acme makes a better shoe when judging the above. However, Oct. Tenth is only right behind but at HALF the price. So, who is better will depend on what you value. Do you value ‘bang for your buck’ or getting “the best”. Really what separates them for me is the amount of amazingly cool models Acme has put out and how well they make a pattern on the last. That is what pushes it over the edge for me. Although I will say that the Oct. Tenth shoe was among the most comfortable I have ever felt out of the box. So, again, who is better will depend on what you value and how much you want to spend for it!
When adding all of the above, it results in the fact that Acme shoemaker for me is the best Chinese shoemaker out there. At least for now!
If you are in or around London this May 4th, make sure to stop by the London Super Trunk Show and see Acme Shoemaker in person.
Learn more about Acme here: https://acmeshoemaker.com/
—Justin FitzPatrick, The Shoe Snob
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FU Pei
The best article about Chinese shoemakers.
Justin FitzPatrick
Thank you my friend!