Joseph Cheaney, English shoemaker since 1886, has recently released a new adelaide oxford that takes this interesting design to the next level. While they are not the first to have done this sweeping like side seam, extending from the quarter across the vamp and into the toe box (Meermin has done this too), I must say that they are the only ones that have done it tastefully IMHO. I never really liked this idea until I saw it on their new Tipton model, as you can see above and below. While being a very bold design I find their interpretation to be quite subtle. The seam is quite discreet as opposed to others that have made this design with a handstitched seam that simply makes it look quite Frankenstein-ish.
And like many others in the industry are using it comes as no surprise that this is in a Museum calf, although they do not name it that. It would appear that Museum calf is now everywhere. The only makers that have yet to hop on board are the super traditional ones like C&J and Edward Green. But I wouldn’t be surprised if they too jumped on board in one manner or another.
Well done for the Tipton model!