It seems that every time I turn around, CNES Shoemaker is launching something new. And not just a few new models here and there, but entire collections, constructions, and now even sister brands. The Vietnamese shoemaker has been quietly on an expansion spree over the last several years, and its latest two introductions are particularly interesting as they target two very different markets.
First, we have the new CNES US Ready-to-Wear Collection, designed specifically for the American consumer, with fuller-fitting lasts offered in a double E width. Then we have Hoc Mon & Co, a sister brand focused on rugged, Americana-inspired boots, taking CNES into an entirely different side of the footwear world.
And while the two couldn’t be further apart stylistically, they are both made in Vietnam, benefiting from the shoemaking experience that CNES has built over the years. So, let’s take a closer look at each.
Table of contents
CNES US Ready-to-Wear Collection – A Wider Fit for Americans
One of the more interesting things about CNES’s new US Ready-to-Wear Collection is that they’ve taken feedback from American customers and developed a range specifically for them. And the biggest difference is the fit.
The entire collection is built around fuller-fitting lasts offered in a 2E (EE) width, something that is surprisingly uncommon in the world of quality welted footwear. Most shoes are offered in a US ‘D’ width and/or a UK ‘E’ and sometimes ‘F’, with both E and F denoting a ‘standard, medium width.’
There are plenty of American men with wider feet, yet relatively few brands specialize in offering wide-fitting dress shoes. Sure, you have the likes of Allen Edmonds and Alden, which have traditionally catered to a broad range of widths. But once you venture into the international world of welted footwear, you’re generally dealing with standard widths and the occasional wider option.
CNES is going straight for that market with a dedicated collection. The lasts themselves are a little fuller and more generous, catering to those who often struggle to find properly fitting dress shoes without having to size up unnecessarily.
And interestingly, the collection will be offered exclusively in US sizing, removing the need to convert between European, UK, and American sizes, as is normally the case when shopping for CNES.
Now, I haven’t yet had the pleasure of trying this collection myself, so I can’t give any firsthand feedback on the fit.
For those with wider feet, I would initially suggest looking at your normal US size. For those with standard-width feet, it might be possible to size down slightly depending on your foot shape and the particular model, but I would absolutely consult CNES before making that decision. A wider last doesn’t necessarily mean that going shorter is the right solution.
As always, fit is about far more than just the number stamped inside the shoe.
Classic Models, Classic Colors
The collection itself is very straightforward, which I think is a smart move for launching it. Although CNES promises grand expansion in 2027.
Rather than launching a bunch of experimental designs, CNES has opted for the classics that have stood the test of time.
You’ll find penny loafers, traditional cap-toe Oxfords, Adelaides, split-toe derbies, Chelsea boots, and other staple models that form the foundation of most classic shoe wardrobes. The colors follow that same philosophy.
Expect plenty of black calfskin, various shades of brown, museum calf, and dark brown suede. Nothing particularly wild, but then again, that’s not the point of this collection.
It’s designed to appeal to the man who simply wants a good-looking, well-made pair of dress shoes that actually fit his feet. And there’s certainly a market for that. In fact, that is the largest market.
Construction and Materials
The new US Ready-to-Wear Collection follows CNES’s traditional Goodyear-welted construction rather than the more labor-intensive hand-welted methods found in its higher-end offerings.
This is an important distinction because CNES now offers such a wide variety of constructions that it’s easy to get them mixed up.
Their Goodyear-welted footwear is generally built around leather uppers, natural leather linings, substantial vegetable-tanned leather insoles, and leather or rubber outsoles depending on the model.
Of course, the exact materials and sole specifications should be checked on each individual product, but the general focus here is on a traditionally constructed, resoleable shoe at a more accessible price point than their hand-welted range.
The core idea of this collection is really its simplicity. Well-known patterns, classic colors, solid construction, and a last designed for a market that is often underserved. If CNES gets the fit right; this could become a very popular collection for them. Time and time again, I had my own customers asking when I was going to offer wider widths. And yet I never did outside of MTO.
US RTW Pre-Order – Until December 1st
To kick things off, CNES is offering an introductory pre-order discount on its new US Ready-to-Wear Collection. This puts the pairs down to $275-$290. But the real value is that those prices include free shipping and duties prepaid. That means the price you see on the collection/product pages is the only price you will pay.
The pre-order period runs through December 1st, 2026, with production expected to be completed in early January 2027.
So, if you’ve been considering a pair, now is a good time to take advantage of the introductory offer. The collection is also an online exclusive, meaning you won’t find it stocked at CNES’s Singapore location.
However, CNES does travel to the United States for trunk shows, where they intend to showcase the collection. That should provide an opportunity for customers to see the shoes firsthand and potentially try them on before committing.
And according to CNES, this is only the beginning. The brand intends to continue developing and expanding the collection throughout 2027.
Shop the CNES US Ready-to-Wear Collection
Hoc Mon & Co – CNES Enters the Rugged Boot World
Now, on the completely opposite end of the spectrum, we have Hoc Mon & Co.
If the US Ready-to-Wear Collection is all about traditional dress shoes and classic elegance, Hoc Mon & Co is about rugged boots, heavy-duty styling, and the Americana aesthetic that has recently become so popular in the footwear world.
Think heavyweight denim, flannel shirts, workwear jackets, and big, substantial boots designed to look like they could take a beating. It’s a very different direction for CNES, although not entirely surprising when you consider just how much manufacturing knowledge they already have at their disposal.
The new sister brand is made in Vietnam, using the same manufacturing operation behind CNES, but with an emphasis on traditional bootmaking techniques and more robust designs.
The lasts are fuller and heavier-looking, the patterns more utilitarian, and the overall aesthetic pays homage to classic American work boots, military footwear, and heritage bootmaking. And I think that is precisely what makes it interesting. It’s not my world, per se, but good to see how dress shoe brands can add their interpretation to that side of things.
Traditional Bootmaking With a Vietnamese Twist
One of the things that stands out about the Hoc Mon & Co collection is its approach to construction.
Rather than simply producing traditional Goodyear-welted boots, the collection places a greater emphasis on hand-sewn construction, with models using hand-welted techniques and others employing stitchdown construction.
Those are two distinct methods, of course, but both have a long history in traditional footwear manufacturing.
Stitchdown construction is particularly associated with rugged footwear, where the upper leather is turned outward and secured to the sole structure. It creates that distinctive, substantial appearance that so many heritage boot enthusiasts appreciate. Personally speaking, it is my least favorite method as it often produces a huge welt and a very wide-looking silhouette. Neither of which suits my personal style. But, to each his own, as they say.
Hand-welted construction, meanwhile, involves attaching the welt to the insole by hand, rather than relying on the machinery used in traditional Goodyear welting. Both methods require considerable skill when executed properly.
The overall look of the collection reflects that more robust approach, with substantial uppers, heavier sole profiles, and more rounded, practical lasts compared with CNES’s dress shoe collections.
The exact leather, lining, insole, and outsole specifications will vary by model, but the emphasis is clearly on sturdy, traditional bootmaking rather than delicate dress shoe finishing.
And for those of you who prefer your footwear with a little more substance, I think you’ll enjoy browsing this new collection.
Made-to-Order Boots
One important thing to understand about Hoc Mon & Co is that these are made-to-order products rather than readily available stock. That means your boots are made after you place your order, and you should expect a production period of around 12 weeks.
As I’ve often said, quality shoemaking takes time, especially when you’re incorporating labor-intensive construction techniques. And if you’re going down the route of hand-welted or traditional stitchdown boots, you should be prepared for a little patience.
Explore the Hoc Mon & Co Boot Collection
CNES Is Becoming a Footwear Emporium
What I find most interesting about all of this is how far CNES has come in terms of its overall offering. And when you really think about it, there aren’t many shoemakers out there trying to cater to such an enormous range of styles, constructions, and customers.
At one end of the spectrum, you can find beautifully finished, hand-welted exotic leather shoes. Think blue crocodile derbies with Norwegian stitching, elaborate fiddleback waists, and details that you would normally associate with shoemakers charging several times the price.
At the other end, you have traditional American-style penny loafers offered in double E widths, designed for the man who simply wants something comfortable, elegant, and well-constructed.
And now, somewhere in an entirely different category, you’ve got rugged, military-inspired boots for the denim-and-flannel crowd. That’s not even touching on all of the other things CNES offers.
They have McKay constructions, Bologna constructions, lightweight slip-ons, casual loafers, soft-soled footwear, and an extensive made-to-order program that allows customers to customize an enormous range of models.
I’ve spoken about their vast MTO offering before in my article, CNES Shoemaker – MTO Program.
And for those unfamiliar with the quality and construction of their higher-end shoes, you can also read my CNES Hand-Welted Line Review, where I go into greater detail about their craftsmanship, finishing, and fit.
Having experienced their shoes firsthand over the years, it’s been interesting to watch their evolution, particularly in terms of finishing, last development, and the variety of models they continue to introduce.
And they don’t seem to be slowing down. They even seem to have improved the website experience.
In fact, I recently wrote about their latest exotic leather models, which show just how far they’re willing to go when it comes to experimenting with patterns and materials.
It really feels as though CNES is trying to become a complete footwear destination. From elegant dress shoes to everyday loafers to substantial heritage boots, they’re working toward offering just about everything under one roof.
One website, one shopping cart, and an increasingly enormous selection of footwear. Whether that strategy will pay off across every category remains to be seen, but I certainly admire the ambition and look forward to seeing what 2027 brings for the Singaporean brand with Vietnamese roots.
And if they can maintain the quality-to-price ratio that has made them popular in the first place, there’s no reason why they shouldn’t continue growing.
For now, I would definitely check out both new collections, particularly the US Ready-to-Wear line while its introductory pre-order offer is still available.
It’s always good to see shoemakers expanding their horizons, and CNES certainly appears determined to cover just about every corner of the welted footwear world.
As always, thanks for reading!
See more CNES here: https://www.cnes.co/
—Justin FitzPatrick, The Shoe Snob
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***CNES is a supporter of The Shoe Snob Blog, and you can consider this a sponsored post***
